Bukovina

Bukovina (Bucovina) is a historical land between the Carpathians and the middle Dniester, mostly owned by Moldova. Fate was not kind to Bukovina, it has always been on the verge of the interests of great powers. In antiquity, inhabited, among others,. by Daków, in the Middle Ages it was gradually colonized by the Slavs, w X-XIII w. it was part of various Ruthenian principalities, and from XIV w. it was incorporated into Moldova. Together with Moldova, she found herself in the circle of Polish influence, and then under Turkish rule. In the second half of the 18th century. Turkey ceded Bukovina to Austria (without Chocimia), which joined her to Galicia. W 1812 r. Russia, after the victory over Turkey, she reached for the starosty of Khotyn and Bessarabia. The Soviet Union claimed the rights to these lands from the very beginning; w 1940 r. as a result of his alliance with Germany, he seized the vicinity of Chernivtsi, currently within the borders of Ukraine.

W XIX w. Many Polish settlers came to Bukovina, enclaves of Polish folk culture exist there to this day. Travelers from Poland visit this land not only because of its famous painted monasteries (as most tourists do), but also, to look for traces of Polishness in the villages hidden among the hills.

PAINTED MONASTERIES

The Moldavian farm has never been a strong state, it always had to reckon with an intervention – diplomatic or armed – stronger neighbors. W XV i XVI w. nor Turkey, nor Poland allowed the local rulers to build fortresses and fortified castles. That is why the Moldavian princes built fortified monasteries near their seats and at important strategic points. They were surrounded by huge defensive walls and, if necessary, they were manned by a military crew. In the face of the invasion, local residents locked themselves inside and prepared for a siege.

Today, unique painted monastic churches are among the most valuable monuments on a European scale. W 1993 r. together they entered the UNESCO World Heritage List.

Most monasteries are located around Tirgu Neamt, and the most famous of them are Agapia and Varatic. The interior of the old church in the Agapia Monastery hides many valuable icons. The walls and ceiling are covered with colorful frescoes by the famous painter Nicolae Grigorescu. Monastery, founded in the Middle Ages, but finished during the Renaissance, it consists of a closed quadrangle of residential buildings, from the side of the courtyard decorated with cloisters.

Varatic was founded in the second half of the 18th century. and therefore, exceptionally, it does not have a defensive premise. Freestanding buildings, surrounded by greenery, are scattered around the church. In front of the church there is a tomb and a monument to the muse of the romantic poet Eminescu – Weronika Micie.

Another cluster of monasteries is in the vicinity of Suceava. Five former defensive monasteries have been preserved, built in the 15th and 16th centuries, famous for their beautifully painted churches. Only Suczewica has complete defensive walls and a complex of monastery buildings (Sucevita), in Moldovity are partially reconstructed, only monastic churches have survived in Voronetu and Arbore. Both, albeit small, are classified as class zero monuments, mainly due to the decoration of external walls.

The churches were small, faithful – not fitting inside – they were standing outside, under the extensive eaves of shingle roofs. Just for illiterate peasants and soldiers, often not even understanding the liturgy in Old Church Slavonic, the outer walls of the church were covered with murals depicting biblical scenes, arranged in peculiar picture stories. A school of religious painters was even established in Iasi, who used folk motifs in their works. What is most surprising in these huge compositions is realism, with which the characters were presented in clothes typical of these parties (negative characters and devils were usually portrayed in Turkish costumes), more than once with tools similar to these, which have survived to this day in the rural parts of Bukovina. The painters made wooded backgrounds for religious scenes, hilly landscapes, that is simply Bukovina.

Each monastery complex had a different color: Voronet in blue, Humor in Indian pink, Moldovita in patinated red, Suczewica in green, and Arbore in malachite green. An interesting fact is, that the paintings did not fade over the years, as you might expect – only some of the frescoes succumbed to the rains and winds. The mystery of making the paints remains unknown to this day, Italy, on the other hand – the homeland of the fresco - they can only envy the durability of church wall paintings.

Poles will probably be interested in the small detail on some of the frescoes inside the temples. Well, when in the middle of the church it becomes the back to the iconostasis, on the left side of the door you can see a painting showing the founders of a given sacred building. More than once, among people painted, one can “discover” a figure in a typically Polish outfit - testimony of contacts and strong Polish-Moldavian ties from that period.

The monasteries in Bukovina are generally open every day from 9.00 do 17.00 the 18.00. Admission to each one costs less than a dollar. Not having too much time at my disposal, the best places to visit are Voronet and Moldovita, which can be reached by train or bus.

In search of frescoed temples, it is also worth visiting places such as Putna, Probota, Dragomirna, Botojani, Slatina, To seize, Dorohoi, Balinesti. Completing the entire loop through Suceava, Putnę, Radowce, Suczewica, Moldova, Humor and Voronet take three days. This time can be shortened, renting a car in Suceava (50 $ per day) – maybe it's worth the taste, even for a ride on a winding mountain road between Moldovita and Suczewica.

ONT tourist offices organize guided tours, but at the price 25-40 $ per person for a bus trip in a large group, it is unlikely to pay off.

Apart from sacred art and monasteries, Bukovina is also worth visiting for its folklore, picturesque countryside, idyllic and interesting landscapes, witty locals.

Moldavian folklore

Folk art of northern Moldova (carving of wooden everyday objects, characteristic elements of the outfit, pointed roofs of huts) it is deceptively reminiscent of Polish highlander folklore. Shepherds from these parts traveled north and west along the ridges of the Carpathians for a long time, transferring old patterns and motifs, and most of all the way sheep grazing and the names related to them. It could be, that the Moldavian shepherd would get along with the Tatra shepherd. “Barracks” (sheep pen) is the equivalent of the Moldovan word kosar (passage in such an enclosure); Moldavians define the homestead as a string, in our highlanders' striga” it is a farm covered with a roof. In the Polish word “cap” echoes the Romanian capra (skin). Oscypki is made in these parts using the same method, like in Podhale, they also taste the same, just like żętyca. It is worth listening to the old songs of the local highlanders – maybe we can catch a common note.