BRAN I RISNOV
Sooner or later, every tourist in Romania will see the Bran Castle in an advertising folder or on a postcard (1378). It was built on the route from Transylvania to Wallachia by German merchants from Brasov, to charge a toll. Guarding a narrow valley, the castle looks like a building from a fairy tale or Disneyland, but one should not believe the stories, it is said that Count Dracula once lived there. It is very doubtful, that the real Vlad the Impaler would ever set foot here. Bram Stoker in the 1897 r. of the classic vampire novel, he placed a castle in northern Romania, on the Tihuta Pass, exactly halfway between Cluj and Suceava (nothing to see there except a shoddy hotel built for the most uncritical of Dracula's admirers). The white walls of the castle are a surprise for tourists in Bran, which make, that the building looks like a Mediterranean residence.
Either way, it's worth a walk around 57 recently renovated chambers (as long as there aren't too big crowds). Next to the entrance there is an ethnographic open-air museum with historic huts from all over Transylvania. Ticket (3,50 $, students 1,50 $) entitles you to visit the castle, skansenu and the Vama Bran Museum, below the castle (everything is open 9.00-16.00 with ex. pn.).
Risnov has two attractions: a conveniently located campsite and a 13th century castle, closed on Monday. All, who got here, they say in unison, that this fortress is more picturesque and much less crowded with tourists than Bran Castle. Renovation is currently underway in Risnov, therefore only one room can be visited (0,50 $), however, it is worth wandering around and looking at the 154-meter well.
Night and gastronomy
In the field behind the stream in front of the Vama Bran museum, right next to Bran Castle, I can pitch my tent for free. You can go to the Bran Castel hostel (tel.068/236404), year-round open country house on a slope, ok. 600 m from the castle, where one / two costs 8/12 $ (5 $ bed in a dormitory room). Meals are served on site; earlier reservations are definitely recommended in summer.
At the 2-star Bran hotel (tel.068/236404), two blocks from the castle, two costs 12 $. On the front terrace you can eat.
Camping in Risnov, Camping Valea Cetafii (tel.068/16346; VI-VIII), it is located exactly below the castle, on the road to Poiana Brasov, less than a kilometer from Piata Unirii, a ok. 2 km from the bus stop to / from Brasov. Renting a cottage (is theirs 30) it costs 5 $ from person, and pitching a tent – 2,50 $ for the tent.
In Bran, you can expect proposals to rent a place in private accommodation – residents are looking for volunteers themselves.
Journey
Do Risnova (0,20 $, 40 min) and Bran (0,30 $, 1 time.) they leave every hour from the District Library (County library) in Brasov, buses marked “Bran-Moeciu”. Better to visit Bran first, then stop in Risnov on the way back.
The Bran Castle can be seen from the bus stop, while in Risnov (there are two stops here – ask to be put down at cetatea) you have to come 100 m east towards the mountains, turn right onto Piata Unirii and look for stairs in the backyard of the unmarked Community Center (House of Culture; on the left). They go to the castle approx. 15 minutes.